Nō Costume (chōken) with Design of Butterflies and Weeping Cherries

This unlined outer robe (chōken) was worn for dancing by a male Nō actor performing a female role. The large sleeves are joined only slightly to the body of the garment, allowing the dancer to move freely during the performance. The robe is made of silk gauze delicately patterned with gold butterfies and weeping cherries.

The Japanese term for this type of garment, chōken, literally means “long silk” in reference to the long sleeves. The use of such robes dates back to the Muromachi period (1392–1573), when they were worn by young boys of elite samurai families. High-ranking samurai would also present Nō actors with elegant chōken hitatare (long-sleeved jacket paired with a trouser-skirt) to use as costumes.