Nō Costume (karaori) with Design of Weeping Cherries and Clouds

This costume for the Nō theater consists of rectangles (dangawari) in a variety of colors alternating with gold brocade. Large and small blocks are patterned with stalks of weeping cherry in full bloom against a background of clouds.

Known in Japanese as karaori (literally “Chinese weave”), this type of garment features a stiff brocade technique. Horizontal wefts in long stitches of glossed silk threads were floated over an unglossed silk twill ground, while flat threads covered with gold paper were bound close to the twill ground weave. Although the rigid brocade does not drape easily, it creates an angular effect that is striking on the theater stage.