Manchu or Han Chinese Woman’s Formal Headdress

This dazzling headdress is shaped like an inverted winnowing basket. The framework made of very thin rattan is covered with black silk gauze; the frame is overlaid with delicate ornaments in the shapes of flowers, birds, and auspicious motifs. The outlines are formed by gilt filigree work and set with semiprecious stones and kingfisher feathers. Kingfisher feathers were highly sought after for their iridescence and luminescent color. They could be appliquéd, stitched, inlaid in silver and gold, or set in resin to create startlingly bright and exciting designs. Because these elaborate headdresses were too fragile to be used regularly, they were brought out only for the most formal occasions.